Coffee Grounds and Egg Shells

Apples, Cilantro and Mushrooms, Oh My!

2011-06-16T14:39:00.000-07:00

Apples are now at the top of the Dirty Dozen as the fruit or veggie highest in pesticides. Buy ORGANIC apples, if possible.

And for the first time, cilantro is also on the list. Testing by federal scientists found 33 unapproved pesticides on 44% of the cilantro samples tested -- the highest percentage of unapproved pesticides recorded on any item since EWG started tracking the data in 1995.

Mushrooms also make their first appearance on the Shopper's Guide as part of the Clean 15.

Source:
EWG

Herb Garden Coop Plans (4 chickens)

2011-06-14T21:27:00.000-07:00

Every set of building plans we sell has something unique to offer, and we love this one because the top is designed to be planted! Make it an herb garden by planting your favorite herbs right on the roof!

The garden-on-top design keeps your flock warmer in the winter, cooler in the summer, and even provides sound insulation in rainstorms. This coop is appropriate for four "free range" chickens, perfect for providing eggs for a small family.

These building plans include complete, step-by-step instructions, with photos and diagrams to help you along. They also include a materials list and tools list, of course!

Materials Cost: Plan on $250, depending on the quality of the materials chosen.
Finished Size: 9' x 3' x 4'

Source: http://www.mypetchicken.com/catalog/chickens/Herb-Garden-Coop-Plans-4-chickens-p927.aspx

Availability: In Stock
Your Price: $34.95
No Shipping

Delivery: Plans are emailed as a PDF file within one business day of purchase.

Oh, Those Dandelions!

2011-05-13T13:49:00.000-07:00

Only in the twentieth century did humans decide that the dandelion was a weed. Before the invention of lawns, the golden blossoms and lion-toothed leaves were more likely to be praised as a bounty of food, medicine and magic. Gardeners used to weed out the grass to make room for the dandelions.

In my work with Eve Venture I am learning more about natural approaches to life. I am starting to routinely ask myself, "Why did God make this?" and "Is there a way to do this/make this/fix this that does not use chemicals?" Today the journey lead me to dandelions.

Dandelions are among the most expensive items in the grocery store. The roots are dried and sold as a no-caffeine coffee substitute – for $31.75 a pound. Dandelions out-price prime rib, swordfish and lobster. They appear in produce and other sections, and even at the liquor store.

You can enjoy a complete meal, from salad greens to dandelion quiche, followed by dandelion ice cream, washed down with dandelion wine. If you over-indulge, a cup of dandelion tea is the perfect remedy, since dandelions help the liver flush hangover-inducing toxins from the body.

This resilient, nutrient dense plant actually has great medicinal value.

In traditional herbal medicine, the root and leaves are used to treat: liver disease, constipation and

poor digestion. Dandelion is believed to help regulate blood sugar levels. It functions as a mild diuretic, and contains many nutrients, including vitamins.

A time-tested herb long used for the treatment of various ailments, the dandelion is generally recognized as safe to consume. However, it may cause mouth sores in some individuals and interact with other herbs and medications. Consult a health care provider for advice before using any alternative supplement.

Vitamins

They have more vitamin A than spinach, more vitamin C (19mg per cup) than tomatoes, and are a powerhouse . The dandelion also has folic acid, B6 and trace amounts of B1, B2, B3 and B5. To balance the bitter taste of the dandelion, it can also be added to green salads, teas and soups. The French have a well-known soup called creme de pissenlits (cream of dandelion soup), which is easy to make.

My grandmother made dandelion wine -- that works for me! LOL

Fat-Soluble Vitamins

Fat-soluble vitamins are important nutrients. Unlike water-soluble vitamins, which are lost when heated, fat-soluble vitamins are not lost during cooking and are stored in the liver and fat cells for future use by the body.

According to HealthRecipes.com, the leaves of the dandelion contain more vitamin A than the equivalent amount of carrots. One cup of dandelion greens can yield 7,700 IU of vitamin A. Other notable fat soluble vitamins in the dandelion include vitamin E and vitamin K.

Minerals

The dandelion contains minerals such as calcium and magnesium. These nutrients are important for bone health. One cup of dandelion leaves contains 103mg of calcium and 20mg of magnesium. Potassium, another mineral in the dandelion, is needed for healthy kidneys; one cup of dandelion leaves contains 218mg of this vital nutrient. Trace amounts of zinc, copper and selenium are also present in the dandelion.

Dandelions have sunk their roots deep into history. They were well known to ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans, and have been used in Chinese traditional medicine for over a thousand years. Dandelions probably arrived in North America on the Mayflower – not as stowaways, but brought on purpose for their medicinal benefits.

Dandelions were world-famous for their beauty. They were a common and beloved garden flower in Europe, and the subject of many poems. In the terrifying New World, the cheerful face of the dandelion would have been a sweet reminder of home. In Japan, whole horticultural societies formed to enjoy the beauty of dandelions and to develop exciting new varieties for gardeners.

To top it off, Discovery News is highlighting an interesting development in the field of rubber. According to new research being done in Ohio, dandelion root sap could be made into a rubber of equal quality to traditional rubber from trees, at a lower cost!

Take another look at those little yellow plants! EveVenture sure is!

Sources:
http://www.livestrong.com/article/295557-vitamins-in-dandelions/
http://www.mofga.org/Default.aspx?tabid=756
http://www.treehugger.com/files/2008/08/dandelion-rubber-could-be-alternative-to-tree-rubber.php
http://www.care2.com/greenliving/eating-dandelions.html
http://serenityinthegarden.blogspot.com/2011/05/amazing-dandelion-harvesting-and.html
http://www.care2.com/greenliving/eating-dandelions.html
Recipes for Dandelion Wine:
http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/dandelion.asp
Recipe for Dandelion Soup:
http://www.care2.com/greenliving/cream-of-dandelion-soup-recipe.html
Read more: http://www.livestrong.com/article/295557-vitamins-in-dandelions/#ixzz1MGL1UnZt
Graphic of boy: Paul Viant/Photodisc/Getty Images
Links:
http://www.eveventure.com/Peggy/article/oh-those-dandy-dandelions
http://the-best-nest.blogspot.com/2011/05/dandy-dandelions.html

Grow a Medicinal Herb Garden; Help Bees

2011-05-03T22:58:00.000-07:00

Save time and money by stocking your backyard or windowsill gardens with five basic medicinal herbs. These superstars will treat common ailments such as colds and flu, inflammation, minor cuts, infections, pain, muscle spasms, anxiety, poor digestion and insomnia. Every medicinal herb garden should include chamomile, yarrow, lemon balm, Echinacea and peppermint. These five basics are safe and effective for the vast majority of people when used as simple teas, poultices or salves.

Echinacea: Super Immune-Booster
Echinacea products are among the top-selling herbs in health-food stores. Many gardeners know this group collectively as purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), but echinacea has emerged as the most widely used common name.
The seeds of E. purpurea germinate readily, or plants can be easily propagated by dividing the roots. This species does well in any well-drained soil, will tolerate up to half shade, and is remarkably drought-resistant. Plants and seeds of E. augustifolia are harder to find, and the seeds germinate much less readily.
While most references suggest using Echinacea root for medicinal use, I make a tea of the fresh or dried flowers of E. purpurea: the chemical constituents of the flowers are similar to those of the root. In summer or fall, I simply pour a cup of boiling water over a chopped flower head and steep it, uncovered, for 10 minutes. For winter use, I make a tincture. I chop an entire plant, place it in a wide-mouthed gallon jar, and pour in around 750 ml (26 oz, or 3.17 cups) of 190-proof grain alcohol (never wood or rubbing alcohol) and a quart of water – just enough to cover the plant material. I put on the lid and set the jar aside for two weeks. After this, the tincture is ready to use. It will retain its effectiveness for at least a year. I swallow about 30-60 drops (1-2 teaspoons) of the tincture four or five times a day when I feel a cold coming on.

Chamomile: Gentle Yet Powerful
Most chamomile tea is made from the dried or fresh flowers of the annual German or Hungarian chamomile (Matricaria recutita, formerly M. chamomilla or Chamomilla recutita). Roman or English chamomile, the flower of the perennial Chamaemelum nobile, is also commonly grown in herb gardens. All can be used interchangeably.
People have used chamomile tea for centuries as a gentle sleep aid (particularly for children), as well as to ease digestion, promote urination and relieve colic. The also used chamomile tea to wash wounds and sores. Today, the pharmacopoeias (official authorities) of 26 countries approve it to treat inflammation, infection, colic, muscle spasms and tension. All uses except sedative claims have been confirmed by recent research.
German chamomile is easily grown from seed. The daisylike flowers usually appear within six weeks of planting. It does best in cooler climates; in the South it quickly bolts and shrivels under the intense summer sun. German chamomile likes a neutral to slightly acidic, well-drained sandy loam and full sun. Plants self-sow freely, so you’ll probably not need to plant it again after the first season. During the several weeks in which chamomile blooms, you can make several pickings. Spread the flowers in a basket in a warm, dark place to dry.
To make tea, just pour one cup of boiling water over one heaping teaspoon of dried flowers. Steep covered for ten minutes then strain into a cup. Sip a cup of tea 3-4 times a day to relieve an upset stomach or have a cup to relax before going to bed.
NOTE: Those allergic to the pollen of other aster family members such as ragweed may also be allergic to chamomile.

Yarrow: First Aid in the Garden

Color variations include white, purple, pink, orange, yellow, and tan

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium), another member of the aster family, contains achilleine, an alkaloid responsible for staunching blood flow. Yarrow contains more than 120 other chemical components, some of which have been shown to reduce inflammation and muscle spasms, and to relieve pain. Others are believe to ease digestion, calm anxiety, treat baldness and relieve hypertension.
Nearly all yarrows require no care, remain pest-free and are winter-hardy in Zones 3 thru 9, blooming June thru September. Plants are easily grown from seed or propagated by dividing the roots in the spring or fall. Yarrow adapts well to many soil types but thrives in moderately rich soil in full sun. Harvest the stalks when in full bloom and hang to dry.
Minor cuts should first be washed thoroughly since yarrow doesn’t inhibit bacterial growth. Crush leaves or flowers and apply to cut.
To make tea, pour a cup of boiling water over 1-2 teaspoons of the dried herb and steep, covered, for 10-15 minutes.

Lemon Balm: A Tasty Healer
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is a favorite of bees as its generic name attests: Melissa is Greek for “bee.” Traditionally, lemon balm has been used to reduce fevers and treat colds by inducing sweating, calm the digestive tract, relieve spasms related to cramps and headaches, and overcome insomnia. Recent research confirms the plant’s ability to calm anxiety, relieve spasms and inhibit the growth of fungi and bacteria.
Reaching two feet in height, lemon balm is easy to grow from seeds sown in the spring or early fall. It is hardy in Zones 4 thru 9. A fertile, moist soil is ideal with a wide range of acidity – from pH 5 to 7.8. It likes a cool habitat, grown under shade. It can be invasive, so prune the flowering tops before they go to seed.
It is most effective when used fresh or freshly dried. Use 1-2 teaspoons per cup of boiling water, steeping for 10 minutes.

Peppermint: Spicy-Sweet, Digestive Aid
Mint is mentioned in the Ebers Papyrus, the world’s oldest surviving medical text, believed to date from the 16^th century B.C.E. Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) is actually a sterile hybrid of spearmint (M. spicata) and water mint (M. aquatica).
Traditionally used to ally insomnia, upset stomach, indigestion, nervous tension, colds, cramps, diarrhea and nausea, recent research has shown that the essential oil contains substances that relieve muscle spasms and inhibit the growth of bacteria and viruses. Its primary constituent – menthol – gives this hardy perennial herb its spicy-sweet scent and flavor.
Grow mints in containers as they can be highly invasive. Since you can’t grow plants from its sterile seeds, you can increase your stock by dividing the roots. Plant in moist, but well-drained soil and full sun. Harvest leaves as soon as they mature and dry them in a warm, dark place.
One teaspoon per cup of boiling water makes a delicious and refreshing tea, up to three times a day to aid digestion

NOTE: People prone to gastric reflux should not drink peppermint tea, as it relaxes the esophageal sphincter, allowing gastric juices to flow into the esophagus, possibly irritating it and/or causing inflammation.

By Steven Foster
The Herb Companion
Read the full article, with historical backgrounds, in the May 2011 issue of The Herb Companion.

How Can You Avoid Genetically Modified Food?

2011-03-22T20:46:00.000-07:00

It is estimated that about 75 percent of processed foods sold in the U.S. contain at least some genetically modified food ingredients.

Unlike many other countries, there is no law in the U.S. requiring the labeling of foods that contain GM ingredients, but if you know how to identify which foods are most commonly genetically modified, you can reduce how many GMOs you eat.

The best way to avoid GMO products is by buying unprocessed 100% certified organic LOCAL WHOLE FOODS.

Here are some ways to avoid genetically modified foods:
Read the PLU labels.

If the five digit PLU number starts with "8," the food is either genetically modified or genetically engineered.
If the five digit PLU number starts with "9," it's organic.
Also, by watching for the absence of either the 8 or 9, which means the produce is neither organically grown or genetically modified, you can recognize traditionally grown produce.
Ensure your produce is not genetically modified by reading the number on the sticker, and by buying 100% certified organic. 100% certified organic is by law never genetically modified!

A 4-digit number indicates the food was conventionally grown and may or may not be genetically modified.
A 5-digit number beginning with an 8 is a genetically modified food. However, not all GM foods can be identified because PLU labeling is optional.
A 5-digit number beginning with a 9 indicates it is organic, and thus a non-GM food.

Read more @ PLU Codes and How They Can Help Consumers Avoid GM Foods
Shop at natural food stores. Shopping at a natural or organic food store does not eliminate the possibility of purchasing genetically modified food, although it does increase the possibility of having a wider variety of non-genetically modified fruits and vegetables.

Purchase a share of a Community Support Agriculture (CSA). Basically, a CSA share is purchasing a portion of a farmer's harvest. The farmer provides you with a basket full of fruits and vegetables every week. Sometimes, CSA can also offer raw milk and fresh eggs. Some farmers refuse to grow genetically modified fruit and vegetables. Be sure to ask your farmer before you purchase the share!

Buy direct from the farmer. You can ask the farmer at your local farmer's market if they grow non-GMO produce. If they don't know, don't buy. Be aware that most seeds and plants out there today are genetically modified or engineered. Again, by buying 100% certified organic we can avoid genetically modifed foods as much as possible.

Grow your own produce. Look in the seed catalog or on the package for the "Non-GMO" label. If there is no label, you can assume that the seed or plant is genetically modified. Here is a list of heirloom seed companies and an amazing source of 100% Certified Organic, Non-GMO, non-hybrid seeds.

Urban Gardening: How to build a Raised bed and Hoop House

Start saving a non hybrid, heirloom seed bank of 100% certified organic NON-MONSANTO SEEDS!

Buy foods labeled "100% certified organic." Laws in both the U.S. and Canada do not allow food labels that say "100% certified organic" to contain any genetically engineered food, including animals that have been fed genetically modified feed. Be aware, however, that if the food is simply labeled "organic" it can still contain genetically modified ingredients up to 30%.

Look for the labels "non-GM" or "GMO-free." These can be hard to find, but if you are able to support manufacturers that produce foods that are not genetically engineered you encourage other manufacturers to follow their lead.

Buy whole, fresh foods rather than processed ones. Foods that you cook and prepare yourself are almost always healthier than anything you can buy ready-made. Cooking healthy food doesn't have to be difficult or time-consuming. There are many simple but delicious and healthy meals that you can prepare in less than 30 minutes that do not involve any genetically modified food.

Know which foods and the products that are made from them are most likely to have been the result of genetic engineering.

For example:

Corn- The ingredient derived from corn that is hardest to avoid is high fructose corn syrup. A huge percentage of processed foods and baked goods contains it, not to mention soda. Any food with a label saying there is corn of any kind in it should be avoided unless it states it is 100% certified organic. Popcorn is an exception, as there is currently no popcorn on the market that is genetically modified.
Soybeans- Products made from soybeans include soy flour, soy isolates, soy lecithin, soy protein and isoflavones. Be sure that soy based products such as tofu, soy milk, edamame and such have a label stating it is 100% certified organic to be sure it isn't genetically modified.
Canola or Rapeseed- Made from the rapeseed plant, canola oil almost certainly is derived from genetically engineered crops, unless you are located in the EU, where no genetically modified crops of rapeseed are yet grown. You find it used mostly as cooking oil and in margarine, and though it is high in monounsaturated fat, it is not a healthy oil to use regularly due to its high levels of omega-6 fatty acids and because it goes rancid easily when heated. Olive oil is a better choice.
Cottonseed oil- Cottonseed oil is a primary ingredient in shortening, vegetable oil and margarine, none of which are healthy fats, and many of which contain trans fats. It is also used to a great extent in processed foods like potato chips and other fried snack foods.
Dairy- Some farmers inject cows with the genetically engineered hormone rBGH or rBST in order to boost milk production. Cows also may be fed genetically modified food in the form of grain and alfalfa unless the milk specifically states that it is organic. Look for products that advertise themselves as rBGH- or rBST-free.
Sugar beets- There is unfortunately no way of knowing if something labeled as containing "sugar" comes from just sugar cane or if it also includes sugar made from beets, since there is no special labeling required. Beet sugar can be avoided by buying products labeled as being made with evaporated cane sugar, 100% cane sugar or organic sugar.

Avoid aspartame as a sweetener. The sweetener used in many products such as NutraSweet and Equal, Aspartame is derived from genetically modified microorganisms. Any artificial sweetener is usually worse for your health than sugar, and should be avoided whenever possible.

Buy 100% organic fruit juices. Though most fruit juices are not derived from GM foods, the sweetener used in many of these juices (and sodas as well) is high fructose corn syrup, which is almost certainly from genetically modified corn.

Buy meat that is 100% grass-fed. Most cattle in the U.S. are grass-fed until the last three to four months of their lives. At this point they are usually shipped to feedlots where they may be given GM corn and other genetically modified foods in order to increase the amount of "marbling" in the meat. Meat from these feedlot animals has higher levels of saturated fat and less of the healthy omega 3 fatty acids than grass-fed and grass-finished animals. To avoid meat that has been fed GMOs, make sure the animal was100% grass-fed or pasture-fed (sometimes also referred to as grass-finished or pasture-finished). For animals such as pigs and poultry that cannot be 100% grass-fed, it's better to buy meat that is labeled as 100% certified organic if possible.

Buy wild caught fish. Farm raised fish are fed fish meal containing GM grains and sometimes meat and bone meal.

Buy 100% certified organic Eggs. Eggs should be labeled 100% certified organic, as those with only a "free-range," "natural," or "cage-free" label are not necessarily free of GMOs.

Buy your meat and produce at local farmers' markets. Most genetically modified food is grown on large industrial farms. The farmers' market allows you to talk directly with the farmer to find out how the food was grown. These markets also usually provide a range of other products, such as organic honey, grains, baked goods, etc. Another place to find healthy, non-GMO products is your neighborhood co-op.

Read the rest of this article at Debra’s Green Living Q&A.
SOURCES and RESOURCES:
Greener Living
Animals Don’t Want to Eat GMOs, So Why Are We?
Has Your Physician Warned You About GMOs?
What’s a “GMO” and Why Should You Care?

http://mkokopelli.blogspot.com/2011/03/organic-company-food-chain.html

by Healthy Child Healthy World

Hailed as "The Queen of Green" by the New York Times, Debra Lynn Dadd has been a pioneering consumer advocate since 1982, specializing in products and lifestyle choices that are safer for human health and the environment. She is the author of Home Safe Home.
The opinions expressed here are solely those of the author and not necessarily those of
Healthy Child Healthy World.

Comments:

- Nikolas Morato Is that possible in America? To avoid GM foods?
- Carrie Hoover Bennett Its difficult to find organic seeds or plants for gardening....is it the safe to plant seeds and just not treat with pesticides? Or must I find "organic" on label and pay the extra cost?
- Amber Fensler I don't know if you have a Vons by you but we bought organic tomatoe seeds there and then got organic soil from the 99 cent store.
  about an hour ago
- Shari Fill Yes! Grow your own! You can have a hydroponic window garden even in the winter or in a city. And organic only, whether buying or growing.
- Felicia Powers I wish this article covered how GMO alfalfa was approved for all use and how this is going to impact our entire food system in the US. It won't be long until GMO's infiltrate our entire food supply - yes, even organics - with the USDA's move to deregulate GMO alfalfa.
- Stacy Lynn Brunscheen Hancock monsanto bought burpee, fyi. and they have ties to several organic brands, like earths best. def do your research if you're wanting to avoid giving one cent to those awful people.
- do you have any links or articles concerning monsanto owning earths best? I thought that was a safe brand
- http://mkokopelli.blogspot.com/2011/03/organic-company-food-chain.html
  
  Alexandria Christmas And we wonder why our cells change and turn into cancer or unexplained blood diseases!!

Grow Your Own Oyster Mushrooms

2011-03-04T22:38:00.000-08:00

A wonderful organic gardening project or science project!

RESOURCES: http://www.fungifun.org/mushworld/Oyster-Mushroom-Cultivation/
http://www.oystermushrooms.net/

Recipe: Quail in Blackberry Sauce

2011-01-28T23:38:00.000-08:00

Recipe source: Trutter, Marion. Culinaria Russia. H. F. Ullmann Publishers, Germany, 2007 p. 257

A while ago, I was in the Super 88 Asian Market in Quincy when I found a six-pack of frozen quail. I had never tried quail. I'd heard about quail, but the opportunity to try it had simply never come up. I threw the quail into my cart and figured that I was sure to find a recipe for it later. A while later - a good while later, to be quite honest - I stumbled upon this recipe. The original calls for pigeon. I didn't have pigeon, and after a brief discussion with my husband I understood that if pigeon were served I would be the only one eating pigeon. I decided that quail would make an adequate substitute.

I did make another small change to this recipe: I couldn't find unripe green grapes. I bought the least ripe of the green grapes that I could find in my local Whole Foods. I don't think that this was a bad thing, although I can't say for sure as I haven't tried the original. I did increase the amount of garlic, and I neglected to reserve some berries and grapes for use as a garnish. We both really liked this recipe, and I would absolutely make it again given half a chance. I think that, given the fact that I omitted the garnish, using frozen and thawed blackberries would probably bring the cost per serving down dramatically. Of course, waiting until blackberries are actually in season would probably help a lot. I'd like to try this by grilling the quail as well, probably over low heat on the Big Green Egg so that they don't dry out. The recipe that follows is the recipe as I prepared it.

Quail in Blackberry Sauce (serves 3 as a main dish, 6 as a first course; approx. $7.91/serving as a main dish.)
6 quail, thawed if previously frozen.
Kosher salt
4 tablespoons melted butter
Approximately 3/4 cup breadcrumbs
1 lb green grapes
1 lb blackberries
6 cloves garlic, crushed
1 bunch dill, chopped
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
Equipment

Roasting Pan
Basting brush
Food processor
Fine sieve

Preheat the oven to 440 degrees.
Salt the quail both inside and out.
Brush the quail with the melted butter.
Dredge the quail generously in the breadcrumbs.
Roast for approximately 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. Puree the grapes and blackberries together in the food processor.
Strain the resulting liquid in the sieve.
Add the garlic, dill and cilantro to the food processor and puree.
Add the blackberry and grape juice and blend well.
When the quail is finished roasting (internal temperature of 180 degrees), put on a serving plate with steep sides.
Pour the sauce onto the plate.
Serve!

SOURCE: http://www.fearlesskitchen.com/2008/04/recipe-quail-in.html

Quail Resources

2011-01-25T20:19:00.000-08:00

http://www.quailforum.com/ Quail Forum
Quail Blog - UK
Rock Creek Quail Eggs - order by mail
Button Quail Info - this makes me re-thnk this! :-( "rats of the bird world??"
Coturnix Corner - New World and Old World definitions
Raising Quail - Allen Easterly (BackWoodsHome.com)

Seed Packet Organizer

2011-01-16T22:54:00.000-08:00

I will be wandering the aisles looking for seeds to grow soon and I’m inspired by organizing and simplifying these days. Part of the fun with growing your plants from seed is having a successful yield. I’ve found that with the excitement of selecting my treasured seeds, I get easily overwhelmed upon arriving home and dreaming out my garden. What to plant and when? My head is spinning with happy pretty delicious yields and I am biting my nails to figure out how to start and sow my seeds all at their own window of perfection.
This craft was inspired by some cute wall hangings I saw that were made of fabric which stored knick knacks for gardening. This is a more utilitarian spin on that idea with no sewing involved. I promise your work will pay off in spades…pun intended. An additional benefit to the project is that you will be able to hang it on the back door of a closet, cupboard, garden shed or craft room in my case.It’s up, out of the way and accessible! If you end up not using all of it for your seed packets, you can trim off the excess space or use the holders for supplies, such as gloves garden stakes. and
Seed timing can vary greatly with some needing to be planted “12-16 weeks Outdoors before the average first fall frost” (parsnip) to “16-20 weeks Indoors before the average last spring frost” (compass plant). All the directions for planting are right there on your packet. But, depending on the region where you live and plant, this timing can get pretty interesting.
Step 1:
My recommendation is to start this project by creating the Seed Packet Organizer first. This creates the framework for the seeds that you buy. Like labeling categories in a school binder, you will know where to put the packets after the labeling is done. Everything in it’s place.

Step 2:
Now, find out when your averages are for “last spring” and “first fall” frost. Each city/town has its own dates. I used Longmont, Colorado so my dates are: Spring 5/20 and Fall 9/18. Your dates will be different than this, so check them and write it down.
Step 3:
Get out your year ’round 2011 calendar and start to backtrack your dates. The list of dates to reference are below with the suggested pocket labels. You are researching 22 “dates” based on the spring and fall frosts. I found that numbering my weeks was the easiest way to keep track.
Step 4:
Now, go get some seeds!!! If you’re like me, you want to grow a BUNCH of wonderful things. You’re inspired by the beautiful display in the nursery center and have a hankering to try something new as well as revisit some old favorites. Refer to your Botanical Interests Sowing Guides to help you once you get home. Sort each packet in your finished organizer and looky there!!! Your schedule for sowing and transplanting is made!!! Done!! Go have some tea and let the schedule lead the way!!
Supplies:

Store bought door hanging “Shoe Organizer” with 24 sleeves of storage
Paper card stock which is sturdy but easy to cut, any color you like
Paper cutter or flexible hand with sharp scissors…tearing is an option too and very artistic!
Bold writing pen/pencil so you can see your notes easily
Cute binder clips to hold the paper in place or just slide the paper into the pocket, your choice.

Instructions:

Take your shoe holder and hang it on the back of a door.
Cut card stock paper into 3-1/2” x 7”. You will need 24 of them. (maybe more for redo’s)
Now with your pen, write down the following suggested pocket labels. Each card gets its own label with your weekly timing. See my photo samples to help you along.
Now flip over the card and write down some of the suggested alternate labels to schedule outdoor sowing, transplanting and harvesting. The concept is to keep the packet of seeds in the appropriate pocket label and then you will always know their timing!!

The following are the suggested pocket labels for the organizer. I’ve separated them into 4 major groups with a few miscellaneous but applicable additions.
Group 1- Sowing Indoors Before Average Last Spring Frost:

Sow Indoors (insert your dates here) 16-20 weeks Before Last Spring Frost
Sow Indoors (insert your dates here) 12-16 weeks Before Last Spring Frost
Sow Indoors (insert your dates here) 10-12 weeks Before Last Spring Frost
Sow Indoors (insert your dates here) 8-10 weeks Before Last Spring Frost
Sow Indoors (insert your dates here) 6-8 weeks Before Last Spring Frost
Sow Indoors (insert your dates here) 4-6 weeks Before Last Spring Frost
Sow Indoors (insert your dates here) 2-4 weeks Before Last Spring Frost
Sow Indoors (insert your dates here) 1-2 weeks Before Last Spring Frost

Group 2-Sowing Outdoors Before Average Last Spring Frost:

Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 4-6 weeks Before Last Spring Frost
Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 2-4 weeks  Before Last Spring Frost
Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 1-2 weeks Before Last Spring Frost

Group 3- Sowing Outdoors After Average Last Spring Frost:

Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 1-2 weeks After Last Spring Frost
Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 2-4 weeks After Last Spring Frost

Group 4- Sowing Outdoors Before Average First Fall Frost:

Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 12-16 weeks Before First Fall Frost
Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 10-12 weeks Before First Fall Frost
Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 8-10 weeks  Before First Fall Frost
Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 6-8 weeks  Before First Fall Frost
Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 4-6 weeks  Before First Fall Frost
Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 2-4 weeks  Before First Fall Frost
Sow Outdoors (insert your dates here) 1-2 weeks Before First Fall Frost

Miscellaneous:

Sow Indoors and Grow in Windows Anytime of the Year
Sow Outdoors After First Fall Frost
Last Average Spring Frost Date (insert your date here)
First Average Fall Frost Date (insert your date here)

Suggested Alternate Labels for the Backside of your Pocket Labels:

Sown indoors (insert your date here) – Need to transplant outdoors (insert your dates here)
Transplanted outdoors (insert your dates here) – Harvest (insert your dates here)
Sown outdoors (insert your dates here) – Harvest (insert your dates here)
Notes

Should You Have the Thyme:

I really love the way this looks. It’s the same project as above but 2 things have changed. Instead of a clear shoe organizer, I found a nice canvas one. Also, I wrote on black card stock instead of the tan. For the black paper, I wrote with a white pencil and that was simple enough. Its bold and looks pretty good. I think it looks like a cafe blackboard displaying your seed specials of the day!!
Seeking creative simplicity for you and your garden…..enjoy!!!

SOURCE: Creative Inspirations

Why I Keep Quails

2010-11-24T22:29:00.000-08:00

Quails are very friendly birds – it is this characteristic that makes them such excellent poultry to keep, even on small holdings.

History

Quails have been bred domestically for more than four thousand years. It is widely believed that many of the quails we breed with today evolved from the Chinese quail. Records of quails dating back to 770 BC have been found in the Far East.

Egyptians so highly valued the quail as a source of protein that they established dedicated quail farms, to breed and grow quail. Quails were in fact so common in Egypt that they had their very own hieroglyph in the Egyptian language!

Why quails?

Quails are grown for both their eggs and meat. The eggs are best described as small speckled pearls and typically weigh about ten grams each. When compared to a chickens’ egg which usually weighs seventy-five grams, they are very small. However, the eggs are highly sort after and are considered a delicacy in many countries.
They contain three times the amount of vitamin B1, as chicken eggs, and twice as much vitamin A and B2. And to top it off, quail eggs contain five times as much iron and potassium, and are richer in phosphorous and calcium, than chicken eggs. They are widely considered one of the best dietary foods, and not just because of all the vitamins and minerals, but also because they contain no ‘bad’ cholesterol (LDL), only ‘good’ cholesterol (HDL).
They also have one of the highest feed conversion ratios of 2:1, which rivals that of almost all other land animals. Their meat is considered a delicacy in some countries. It is high in proteins, and provides an abundant source of vitamins and minerals. Plus the meat is incredibly flavorsome and very tender – especially if you grow it yourself.

Health Benefits

Quail eggs have many benefits, which is why they are so often considered a health food. One of the most notable benefits is that they have anticancer properties. They also:

Remedy digestive tract disorders, such as, gastritis and ulcers
Help cure anaemia and rid the body of heavy metals and toxins
Help treat tuberculosis, asthma and diabetes
Have strong anti-cancer properties and may help inhibit cancerous growth
Alleviate and remove stones from the kidney, liver and gall bladder
Strengthen heart muscles and blood cells
Highly stimulate promiscuity. As well as nourishing the prostate gland, by restoring valuable nutrients.
Promote good memory and enhance brain function
Strengthen the immune system and slow down aging
Improve skin colour and hair strength

Overall quail eggs strengthen the body and organs, prolong life and restore valuable nutrients and vitamins. They are one of the worlds’ wonder foods.

___________________________________________________________________

COMMENTS:

1) I have mine in a low level chicken house with a large run attached. I know of others that keep them in rabbit hutches which have a large mesh run attached (similar thing really).

I keep Japanese and Italian Quail, they are fantastic egg producers. Once they start in the spring they lay every day until around end of August and then start to lay as and when. Some people give them artificial light in the winter to try and prolong the laying season but I am a believer in letting nature take its course and let them have a rest until spring.

When they are young you start them off on chick crumbs and then move onto the small sized chicken growers and then layers. I also give mine cuttle fish and vegetables. I grow my own sunflowers so they get the sunflower seeds once they have dried out too. You can get specially formulated quail mix but I have never found it any better than the chicken feed. www.woolandfeathers.co.uk

2) I've been wanting to get some quail too - are the Japanese ones the slightly hardier ones? I seem to recall it's the Chinese Painted ones that don't like the winter cold so much.. or is it the other way around?
Also, do they make much noise? Not that they can make any more noise than the kids next door, but still . . . .

3)Yes mine are very hardy, live outdoors in a house and run all year round.

The males do a call noise if alarmed or mating but not much louder than a garden bird noise really, just a trill noise, nothing at all like our cockerels can produce!

www.woolandfeathers.co.uk

4) You must have quiet males. My males are louder than my cockerel and they dont seem to know day from night (they have no artificial lighting and can see out), the pnly good thing is that its less frequent than the cockerel.

I keep mine in an insulated shed, with windows and plenty of ventalition. They are kept in cages with a sloping wire floor (so the eggs roll to the front).
Each cage is 2ft sq. and I keep 4-5 quail in each cage.

I got my first lot at 4 weeks old and kept them under a heat lamp for 2 weeks indoors due to it being October time last year and chilly. Then they were put outside in a rabbit/chicken run (house 2x3ft, run 3x3ft) but this had a opening upwards lid which I had to put mesh on as they would fly upwards when frightened e.g. everytime i opened the lid.

They also lay anywhere and do not go to roost. They are quick flighty things so you have shoo them in each night.

When they got to 8 weeks old, we had made them their indoor accomadtion and grouped them -- 1 male and 3 females. They were japense quail, very good layers, though mine were noisy. You dont need males if you dont want to breed. The females lay better when they aren't stressed by a randy male jumping them every 5 minutes.

5) ON FEEDING AND HOUSING: mine get chick crumb until 6 weeks then onto 40% chick cromb 40% layers mash 10% grain

I keep jumbo Italian quail and get 2 eggs a day most days and 1 on some days from march to late October with no extra lighting
They are all in some form of rabbit hutch

6) Amazing how everyone's experiences are different with quail!

I am amazed Pel, that yours are more noisy than your cockerels, mine certainly aren't. Is that because you keep them indoors and the noise is echoey do you think? Mine are always a bit flighty too when they are young but I handle them a lot and even though you can never tame them like a chicken they do get used to you at feeding times and my cleaning out routine etc.

Why are you getting rid of them over winter? They will still lay next year if they are only a year old....?

If you bring them up in groups they should accept more than one male in a pen, I have two males with 10 females and they all get on just fine.

They are a bit stupid when it comes to rain, but I have a house which they go in and out as they please, and a run which is partly mesh and partly covered and even though they may sit outside when its raining they are usually undercover. I don't shut mine in the house at night, they just go in when they are ready as the house and run are all secure so nothing can get to them overnight. They seem to like it that way as then they can come out really early in the morning which is what they seem to prefer to do.

www.woolandfeathers.co.uk

RESOURCES: http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/easterly101.html
http://www.omlet.us/guide/guide.php?view=Quails

15 Point Hit List (Neurotoxins and ADHD)

2010-08-06T08:57:00.000-07:00

ADHD and Neurotoxins . . . . Connecting the Dots

My friend Marie used to rouse her three teenage children on Saturday mornings and begin the day by requiring everyone to help clean the house. I was envious of her chutzpa to consistently teach this responsibility to her kids. Because Marie was so consistent I found that a curious pattern emerged. Every Saturday afternoon, without fail, Marie's son exhibited hyperactive, "out of control" behavior after his cleaning chores.

Looking at the cause and effect of the son's behavior through my lens of awareness of how neurotoxic many cleaning chemicals are, I could see it would make sense that the son's central nervous system and brain could be reacting to these chemicals. Symptoms of neurotoxicity include lack of concentration, personality changes, depression, hyperactivity and the mimicking of psychiatric disorders.

Not being particularly "green," the cleaning products Sally bought for her kids to use were the standard store-bought fare readily available in supermarkets.
This brings to mind a couple of sad, but true, facts:

Just because it is on the store shelf does not mean that it is safe.

2. The government has very limited power to regulate manufacturers. In fact,
products that kill 50% of lab animals through ingestion or inhalation can still receive the federal regulatory designation "non-toxic".

To name a few examples of neurotoxins found in such products:

VOCs (furniture polish can contain VOCs)
neurotoxic disinfectants
petroleum distillates
fragrances (scented products are notoriously neurotoxic)
and waxes (VOCs again in the solvents)

Pesticides take front seat in the arsenal of poisons that hurt the central nervous system and brain. After all, they are designed to kill. A new study reported in the June issue of Pediatrics, published online May 17, links organophosphate pesticide metabolites found in urine to a much higher incidence of Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD).

"Each 10-fold increase in urinary concentration of organophosphate metabolites was associated with a 55 percent to 72 percent increase in the odds of ADHD," study author Maryse F. Bouchard, PhD, of the Department of Environmental and Occupational Health, University of Montreal, told Medscape Psychiatry.

Another example of subtle neurotoxic exposure children suffer through that most adults miss is to the solvents in markers in art class. When my daughter was in school, one year the math class was the period after art class, and she said that the kids were always "off the walls" in math class. What a tragedy, and one that could so easily be avoided if schools stopped allowing neurotoxic art materials to be used. How many kids thought they were bad at math when the culprit was the colored markers?

I've often wondered why the dots haven't been connected by most people between neurotoxic chemicals and ADHD-type behavior. After all, if a neurotoxic chemical is known to cause depression, for example, and that chemical is being used, why do so few people (and almost no psychiatrists) say, oh my gosh, let's remove the neurotoxin?

At least one thing parents can do is to remove neurotoxins from the home. Here is the 15 Point Hit List. These are quick and easy solutions:

Yes to "green" dry cleaning using C02, no to dry cleaning with perchlorethelene (and NO hanging clothes in bedroom closets until they have first aired out -sans plastic dry cleaner bags- in another less "lived in" room. We use the garage unless it is boiling hot and in the summer we use the well ventilated mud room)

Yes to vegetable-based Free and Clear detergents and cleaning products, no to cleaning products containing volatile organic chemicals (Melaleuca is a great choice here).

Yes to natural furniture polishes like those made by Melaleuca - or simple jojoba oil (a natural wax), no to furniture polish made of volatile organic chemicals.

Yes to organic produce, no to highly processed foods.

Yes to safe integrated pest management, no to synthetic pesticides (SolUMel and Tough and Tender are great bug killers and deterrents).

Yes to water-based markers, no to solvent-based markers.

Yes to food with natural food coloring, no to food with FD&C dyes

Yes to cedar and herbs for moths, no to moth balls.

Yes to natural essential oils for fragrance, no to synthetic perfumes and fragrances (Again Melaleuca hits a home run in this category!)

Yes to efficient heating systems, no to kerosene, open gas, or other systems that could leak carbon monoxide.

Yes to educating yourself about lead paint and other sources of lead, no to "hoping for the best" if you live in a house built before 1978.

Take your shoes off in the house.

Filter your water - Brita works well (Also, have your tap water tested and do not be fooled into thinking bottled water is better).

Do not smoke and stay away from second hand smoke.

Simple steps such as these can make a big difference. Being away from neurotoxins helps you have more serene sleep, babies are less fussy, children concentration is improved, people are calmer and the lifestyle helps you have a better sense of well-being.

Article by, Anne B. Boyd (Huffington Post)

Edited by, Soutenus

http://healthychild.org/blog/comments/neurotoxins_and_adhd_connecting_the_dots/#ixzz0vpgN43NO

What Do Deet & Deadly Nerve Gas Have In Common?

2010-07-11T17:11:00.000-07:00

New research shows that the insect-repelling chemical deet actually functions in the same way as deadly nerve gases and dangerous pesticides, by attacking the nervous systems of both insects and mammals. Mammals ---- as in humans --- as in you and me!

"These findings question the safety of deet, particularly in combination with other chemicals," said researcher Vincent Corbel of Institut de Recherche pour le Developpement in Montpellier.

The chemical known as deet (for N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) is found in nearly every commonly used mosquito repellent in the world, and eight billion doses have been applied since its introduction to the consumer market in 1957. The chemical was originally developed as an insect repellent by the U.S. Army in 1946, following experience with jungle warfare in World War II.

Deet's popularity comes largely from its effectiveness in repelling a variety of medically significant insects over longer periods of time than more natural repellents (such as certain vegetable-based oils), and the fact that it can be incorporated into sprays, liquids or lotions.

Yet although researchers have long insisted that the chemical is safe, they still recommend that consumers use the minimum amount of repellent necessary to cover exposed skin or clothing, and that deet repellents not be applied directly to any irritated or injured skin. While the United States allows the sale of 100 percent deet repellents, many other countries limit maximum concentrations of the chemical to 30 or 50 percent.

In spite of the chemical's long use, researchers are unsure exactly how deet functions to repel mosquitoes. It has long been believed to affect mosquito behavior without harming the insects, probably by interfering with their sense of smell and their ability to find human prey.

Yet the new study, published in the journal BioMed Central Biology, suggests that deet may function by interfering directly with insects' nervous systems.

"We've found that deet is not simply a behavior-modifying chemical but also inhibits the activity of a key central nervous system enzyme, acetylcholinesterase, in both insects and mammals," the researchers said.

In experiments performed in cockroaches and rats, the researchers found that deet blocked the action of the neurological enzyme acetylcholinesterase. This is the same mechanism that causes the toxic effects of popular carbamate and organophosphate pesticides, as well as chemical weapons such as sarin and VX nerve gas. This may mean that deet repellants are actually insecticides and could damage the human nervous system.

Organophosphates are among the pesticides most commonly implicated in pesticide poisoning worldwide, and are also a commonly used suicide method in agricultural areas. Like nerve gases, organophosphates irreversibly inactivate acetylcholinesterase, leading to excessive salivation and eye watering at low doses, and muscle spasms or death at higher doses. Although carbamates are not as toxic as organophosphates, their effects can be just as severe at high enough doses.

Strong evidence also links these pesticides to dangerous health effects caused by long-term exposure even at low doses.

Previous studies have implicated deet in causing seizures in children, but the current study is the first to uncover how the chemical acts directly on the nervous system.

The researchers also found that the effects of deet were enhanced when it was used in combination with organophosphates or carbamates, as in mixed repellent-insecticide products.

Bahie Abou-Donia of the Duke University Medical Center said that the new findings are consistent with previous research into the risks of deet.

"Deet is a good chemical for protection against insects," Abou-Donia said. "But prolonged exposure results in neurological damage, and this is enhanced by other chemicals and medications."

The researchers in the new study suggested that pregnant women and children under the age of six avoid using deet-containing mosquito repellents. Abou-Donia went farther, calling for such products to carry warning labels about deet's potential to cause neurological harm.

The Environmental Protection Agency has a review of deet's safety planned for 2012.

Sources for this story include:
Natural News
news.bbc.co.uk
www.sciencedaily.com
www.usnews.com
www.dailymail.co.uk

Are Bugs Bugging You? Don’t Reach for the DEET!

2010-07-03T09:36:00.000-07:00

Try these easy tricks to safely prevent pests (and if they still come around, we have four tips to naturally soothe any bites or stings).

Tips to keep bugs from biting:

Protect your child by covering that delicate skin with lightweight, long sleeved shirts, long pants and socks. Insects may be attracted to floral prints. Choose light, solid colored fabrics.
Mosquitoes are usually most active at dusk and just before dawn. Avoid playing outside during these peak hours.
Keep your window and door screens in good repair. When possible keep your child protected indoors or behind mosquito netting.
If eating outside, use an outdoor fan to blow away mosquitoes.
To reduce mosquito breeding near your home, plant scented geraniums, lemon thyme, marigold, tansy, citrosa plants, sweet basil and/or sassafras.
Eliminate common mosquito breeding sites such as sources of standing water (old tires, pools, plastic pots, buckets, garbage cans or clogged roof gutters). Change water in birdbaths every other day.
Make your yard friendly for natural predators such as ladybugs, bats, dragonflys, praying mantis, spiders and birds. Stock a pond with goldfish or freshwater minnows.
Use yellow light bulbs (non-attractive, to bugs) in outdoor fixtures.
Fragrances attract insects. Avoid using scented products (such as soap or shampoo) on your child or yourself.
Choose safer bug repellant products (but consider efficacy if you have local insect-borne disease risks.) PeggyCortez@yahoo.com has a great guide to natural bug repellents.

Tips for Soothing Bug Bites

Tea tree oil. If you are stung, remove stinger if there is one. Apply tea tree oil liberally in a circular motion surrounding the entry point -- be gentle touching the point of entry! Let dry and the pain and swelling should ease in two to three minutes. Re-apply if needed. The pharmaceutical grade of tea tree oil will ensure a safer choice and a level of purity not found elsewhere -- learn more about how to economically obtain this by sending a request to PeggyCortez@yahoo.com
Baking soda. Mix baking soda with water to form a paste. Again, remove stinger and apply the paste. Cover with a gauze bandage or paper towel and tape. Leave on for one half hour or more until pain is gone.
Onion. Relieve the itch from bug bites with an onion. The sulfur in onions neutralizes the chemicals that cause the itch. Simply slice a yellow onion in half and rub one of the cut sides on the bite. The itching should stop immediately. Refrigerate the onion in a sealed container to use again if the itching resumes. Make a fresh slice before reapplying it.
Vinegar. Good for spider bites too. Soak a cotton ball in vinegar and place it over the spider/bug bite. If you get bites on your hand or foot, put the soaked cotton ball in a bag and put your infected hand/foot in the bag over night. Make sure that the bag is not tight around the wrist/ankle. As an alternative, you may hold the soaked cotton ball in place by a band aid. By morning, the swelling and/or soreness should be gone as if you had hardly been bitten at all.

Note: Even when using natural bug repellents or remedies, watch for reactions. Some people have sensitivities. Always watch for reactions after bites and stings, also. If you notice any abnormal swelling or other signs of a serious allergic reaction, call 911, because some people can die from bites/stings if they are not treated immediately.

Mold and Mildew

2010-05-25T19:47:00.000-07:00

Dr. George Graham, a microbiologist from Knoxville, TN, is an authority on mold. Government agencies have hired him to speak on the hazardous emissions from mold.

Dr. Graham feels mold is one of the most dangerous toxins you can have in your environment. Of the illnesses today, 65% is directly or indirectly related to mold.
It releases toxins that compromise the immune system. It has been linked to the death of children in the Cleveland, Ohio area. Mold is a major factor in health problems such as cancer, lung disease, depression, skin diseases, eye infections, rheumatoid arthritis and more.
Dehumidifiers are a great source of mold growth. Getting carpet wet, whether by cleaning solutions or water spills is another breeding ground for mold.

Mold is a plant-like form and it seeks a food source and grows into it. So it doesn't just grow on our food sources (bread, cheese, etc.), but it grows on dampness -- such as under carpet, in heating/air conditioning vents, inside walls that have gotten wet and many other places.
If the humidity in the home is over 40-45% there will be mold.

Using household bleach on mold will only remove the color. It will not kill it.

Through lots of research, Dr. Graham discovered the properties in Melaleuca oil would kill mold. He placed an open bottle of the pure Melaleuca oil along side a lab dish with mold on it and covered both with a dome cover. In 30 minutes the mold was killed. Dr. Graham then sprayed **Sol-U-Mel® into the air conditioning system and placed a dish of mold on a table - THE MOLD WAS KILLED.
Mold may be a contributing factor in fibromyalgia and it can be directly related to ADHD.
Dr. Graham recommended spraying air filters with Sol-U-Mel®, diluted 5 to 1. Also, spray all your vents. You can also set an open bottle of *T36 inside your unit. He recommended this for your automobile as well.

To request more information head on over to my wellness website and fill out the request. :-)

DETAILS:

*T36

The oil of the Melaleuca alternifolia leaf. Valued for hundreds of years as a remedy for a variety of health concerns and many skin ailments, Melaleuca Oil has since been proven by research to be a powerful natural antiseptic, a soothing balm for minor wounds, insect bites, and minor burns, as well as a skin conditioner—and much, much more.

**What is Sol-U-Mel®?

Sol-U-Mel® is a uniquely concentrated cleaner from The International Wellness Company, Melaleuca. Melaleuca is an Amercian company based out of Idaho Falls, Idaho.

Sol-U-Mel® is comprised entirely of naturally derived ingredients, including the highest concentration of Melaleuca Oil available, and the stain-cutting ingredients in it come from renewable resources that are biodegradable. Among its many attributes, it is the most effective cleaner on the market and it is used for many more functions than just cleaning!

It removes ink, oil stains, crayon marks, tar from cars, paint, lipstick, chewing gum, hair coloring etc.- not only that, but it also kills germs, fleas, ticks, carpet mites, dust mites, mosquitoes, and mold. It contains no bleach or ammonia, no phosphates or other harmful chemicals.

Sol-U-Mel® fills an entirely new niche.

Garlic Fire Spray and More!

2010-05-03T11:29:00.000-07:00

Non-Toxic Organic Garden Pest Control Solutions

GARLIC FIRE SPRAY is the stuff of legend. There are many recipes, but they consist of some or all of the following: garlic, chilli peppers, soap, vegetable oil, kerosene and water. Don't leave home without a concoction of this. Depending on its strength it will slay dragons and ants (must have dragons if we mention legends)!
The brew I use at the moment is very effective and goes like this:

2-3 garlic bulbs (about 6-10 cloves per bulb)
6 large or 12 smaller hot chilli peppers (any variety will do, or if unavailable try 1-2 tablespoon hot chilli powder)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 squirts of liquid detergent (approximately 1 heaping tsp) recommendation: LEMONBRITE
7 cups water. (Use about 2-3 cups in the blender, and top up with the rest later)

Put the whole lot into a blender and vitamize well, then strain through muslin, a coffee filter or similar. Pour what you need into a spray bottle for use and keep the rest in jars with lids on in a cupboard or on a shelf somewhere, well labeled.

Experiment with it if necessary. Check for results or any damage to young plants. If it fixes the problem and your plants are happy, you have the perfect mix. If you still find a few pests, albeit struggling, then lower the water dilution rate or change the ingredient quantities slightly.
This great concoction is a lovely garlicky, pungent mixture, but the smell dissipates quickly once it's been sprayed around.

This garlic fire mixture needs to be re-sprayed frequently - for example after rain and dew. It's best to spray every few days until there is no sign of pests. Thereafter, apply about every week to 10 days for any eggs or larvae that may have hatched out.

Uses for this natural garden pest control are unlimited. Because it has oil and dishwashing liquid in it, it sticks to plants and suffocates pests such as scale and mealy bug. It will kill ants, aphids, caterpillars, grubs, bugs and just about anything small.

SO BE VERY SELECTIVE — MIND THE LADYBUGS, LACEWINGS, BEES AND OTHER BENEFICIAL FRIENDS.

Spraying this mixture around the edge of your garden will deter pets. Rabbits, gophers, woodchucks and other garden gate crashers will also be discouraged.

Here's another version, that requires NO blender.
Put a whole garlic bulb through a garlic press and let it set in a glass jar with several ounces of mineral or salad oil. Mix a few spoonfuls with dishwashing liquid, hot pepper sauce and water in a spray bottle.

You can make a pure smothering oily mixture. Blend together ½ cup of liquid or grated pure soap in 1 cup of vegetable oil. Any inexpensive salad oil from supermarket is fine. Use a blender or beat by hand and it will become a thick white consistency. To use, mix 1 tablespoon with 1 litre of warm water and spray every bit of plant where you find the pests you're after.

Fish Fertiliser is another useful jack-of-all trades deterrent for unwanteds, such as mites, caterpillars and even nematodes. It seems some gardeners, orchardists and farmers noticed that when they sprayed their plants with fish fertiliser, the pests held their noses, packed up and left, spreading the word as they did so.

Exactly why it works is not yet clear but there are a couple of possibilities:

fish fertilizer is oily, this smothers nematodes and mites
butterflies and moths find their host plants by their acute sense of smell. So they are not going to hang around breeding caterpillars when the smell of cauliflowers or apples is masked by fish!

Be considerate of your neighbours though, as they might not like the fishy aroma that lingers around for a day or so.

Natural Aphid Control

2010-05-01T16:57:00.000-07:00

I highly recommend Garden's Alive's Lady Bugs. Here is their information:

Adult lady beetles and their larvae are an excellent, non-chemical way to control aphids, Colorado potato beetles (egg stage) and other insect pests in your garden. But unlike the lady beetles sold by most other companies, ours are:
screened to remove patasitoid-infested beetles
ready to lay eggs the day you release them
hungry for pests!
Up to 20% of the lady beetles shipped by other companies are parasitized. So, not only will their lady beetles die shortly after you receive them, but they'll also release parasitoids that will kill any lady beetles previously in your garden.

Our Sta-Home lady beetles arrive healthy and ready to feed on pests! Females immediately lay eggs, which provide a second wave of pest-eaters within a week. And these larvae, which can't fly, have an even bigger appetite than the adults!

We precondition our lady beetles by feeding them a healthy diet to encourage egg laying. We also remove all parasitoid-infesting beetles so they don't attack your purchased or existing beetles.

One package of about 900 Sta-Home adults will produce more than 10,000 pest-eating larvae in your garden within 30 days! We ship at the proper time for your area or on the date you specify.
Note: We take great care to ensure that your insects arrive safely and in good health, ready for your garden. We normally ship them on Monday or Tuesday so they arrive before the weekend.

Pricing? Here it is. Go to Gardens Alive to order. This is just a cut and paste. :-)

1 pkg of Sta-Home^TM Lady Beetles (covers 1,000 sq ft)
1+	$13.95	Qty
1 of 3 pkgs of Sta-Home^TM Lady Beetles (1 package each of 3 shipments at 3-week intervals)
1+	$35.95	Qty

Cross-posted @ The Best Nest

Weed Killer Castrates Male Frogs

2010-03-03T15:04:00.000-08:00

Atrazine

By Azadeh Ansari, CNN

March 1, 2010 10:06 p.m. EST

Recent studies have raised concerns about the potential health risks of atrazine, a herbicide widely used on farms.

STORY HIGHLIGHTS

Study finds that a common herbicide can emasculate male frogs and turn some into females
Atrazine is weed killer widely used in Midwestern U.S. and other areas of the world
Some scientists are concerned the herbicide may pose risks to reproductive health
Manufacturer: "Residues of atrazine ... in water do not pose a health risk for consumers"

RELATED SOURCES:

ATSDR Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry

Atrazine website (you will find all positive information about the chemical here - calling it safe)

ABC report March 2, 2010 Weedkiller makes frogs change sex

LINKS TO DOCUMENTARIES:

http://www.californiadreamseries.org/rfc.htm
http://www.pbs.org/strangedays/index_flash.html
http://www.nationalgeographic.com/outthere/grantees.html#hayes
http://www.natgeotv-int.com/pages/programmes/search?alpha=O&genre=NaturalHistory&prod=

LINKS TO VIDEOS:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4lijvIjpRw
http://www.mcnc.org/ncren/NCCU_Pesticide/
http://webcast.berkeley.edu/event_details.php?webcastid=9983

RELATED TOPICS:

(CNN) -- Atrazine, a weed killer widely used in the Midwestern United States and other agricultural areas of the world, can chemically "castrate" male frogs and turn some into females, according to a new study.
New research suggests the herbicide may be a cause of amphibian declines around the globe, said biologists at the University of California-Berkeley, who conducted the study. The findings are being published this week in the journal Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.
Researchers found that long-term exposure to low levels of atrazine -- 2.5 parts per billion of water -- emasculated three-quarters of laboratory frogs and turned one in 10 into females. Scientists believe the pesticide interferes with endocrine hormones, such as estrogen and testosterone.
"The effects of atrazine in the long term have been shown to demasculinize or chemically castrate [frogs], combined with complete feminization of some animals," said lead researcher Tyrone B. Hayes, a biologist and herpetologist at the University of Berkeley.
"We need to reconfigure how we evaluate chemicals in the environment and the impact on environmental health and public health," he said.
Hayes found that 10 percent of the exposed genetic male frogs developed into functional females who copulated with unexposed males and produced viable eggs. The other 90 percent of the exposed male frogs expressed decreased libido, reduced sperm count and decreased fertility, among other findings.
Syngenta, a Swiss company that is the largest manufacturer of atrazine, has challenged the validity of Hayes' study.
"We haven't seen these kinds of responses that Dr. Hayes reports," said Keith Solomon, an environmental toxicologist at the University of Guelph in Ontario, Canada, who has served as a consultant to Syngenta. "Some of these studies are poorly conducted and are entirely inconsistent."
The new study's implications for atrazine's effect on humans is unclear. But some scientists are concerned the herbicide may pose risks to reproductive health.

One of these copulating frogs, both genetically male, has been feminized by exposure to atrazine, says a new study.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency last year launched a comprehensive evaluation of the herbicide to investigate any possible links between atrazine and cancer and to determine whether new restrictions are necessary. The EPA's current safety standard for atrazine in drinking water is three ppb.
The European Union banned atrazine in 2004 because it was consistently showing up in levels higher than 0.1 ppb -- its threshold for harmful chemicals -- in drinking water.
Farmers in the United States continue to use atrazine on crops.
The herbicide has been a long-standing favorite among corn, sorghum and sugarcane farmers because it is affordable and can eliminate the need for tilling the soil. Tens of millions of pounds of atrazine are used each year in the United States. Syngenta estimates that 60 million pounds were used during 2008, most of it on corn.
A 2006 study by the U.S. Geological Survey found atrazine in approximately 75 percent of stream water and about 40 percent of all groundwater samples from agricultural areas tested between 1992 and 2001.
The Natural Resources Defense Council, an advocacy organization, released a report in August 2009 that documented spikes of atrazine in the water supplies of Midwestern and Southern agricultural areas where the pesticide is primarily applied.
Home or municipal carbon filters can remove atrazine from water but some water filtration systems in small towns are not equipped to filter out atrazine. Water systems in a handful of states have sued atrazine's manufacturers in an effort to force them to pay for removing the pesticide from drinking water.
Tim Pastoor, principal scientist for Syngenta, told CNN that the EPA's current levels for atrazine are safe and that "there is political pressure to get atrazine re-examined."
"Residues of atrazine and all our crop protection products in water do not pose a health risk for consumers," Syngenta says on its Web site.
The company also says "ongoing laboratory and field research by university scientists shows that atrazine has no effect on the survival, growth or limb deformities of frogs."
But Jennifer Sass, a senior scientist with the NRDC's health and environment program, believes the research by Hayes and the other University of California, Berkeley, biologists is valid.
Sass also is skeptical of Syngenta's claims.

"Their tactic is to flood the scientific literature with negative data to negate the other studies," she said. "It's only their studies that show that atrazine is not an endocrine disrupter."

CNN.com's Brandon Griggs contributed to this story.

More VERY helpful links found at AtrazineLovers.com.

The website was created and is maintained by Dr. Tyrone B. Hayes, PhD, is dedicated to informing the scientific community, the activist community, and the public at large about the dangers of the herbicide atrazine. Dr Tyone B. Hayes is the lead researcher mentioned in the article.

Regarding the regulation of atrazine, the US Environmental Protection Agency recently stated that "the ultimate decision is much bigger than science" and that it "weighs into public opinion."
We (the public) must play an active role in this regulatory decision.

http://www.mindfully.org/Pesticide/2003/Syngenta-Tyrone-Hayes31oct03.htm
http://teaching.berkeley.edu/dta02/hayes.html
http://www.nationalgeographic.com/xpeditions/lessons/18/g912/hayes1.html
http://www.exploratorium.edu/frogs/researcher/index.html
http://www.jyi.org/volumes/volume10/issue1/features/lee.html
http://www.mindfully.org/Pesticide/2002/Tyrone-Hayes-Curiosity4nov02.htm
http://www.nationalgeographic.com/emerging/tyroneHayes.html
http://students.berkeley.edu/myberkeley/parents.asp?todo=manyfaces7
http://www.pan-uk.org/RCML2005.htm
http://news.minnesota.publicradio.org/features/2005/02/04_bensonl_atrazineupdate/
http://www.mncenter.org/p.asp?WebPage_ID=24&Profile_ID=436
http://sfweekly.com/issues/2004-06-02/feature.html
http://www.sierraclub.org/sierra/200407/profile.asp
http://www.berkeley.edu/news/chancellor/bim/may_05.shtml
http://www.nrdc.org/health/pesticides/natrazine.asp
http://www.ourstolenfuture.org/NewScience/wildlife/frogs/2003/2003-1023hayesetal.htm

What's Causing Cancer in North America?

2010-02-04T09:12:00.000-08:00

This is a Canadian article but much of the article pertains to all of North America!

Chemicals may be one of the biggest reasons for cancer's epidemic proportions.

There are more than 85,000 chemicals that are currently licensed for use in North America. Less than half have ever been tested for human health risk and even fewer for potential environmental impacts (and even fewer have been tested for environmental impact).

Cancer in Canada is now projected to afflict one in every 2.2 men and one in every 2.6 women in their lifetime. In the 1930s, those numbers were less that one in 10. What's happening? Why are we now seeing what many are calling a "cancer epidemic"?

Some would suggest we are simply an aging population and cancer is a disease of the old. Not true. Recent statistics show that the net incidence rate of cancer has increased 25% for males and 20% for females from 1974 to 2005 - after correcting for the effects of aging.

Children are increasingly the victims. Researchers in Britain have shown that certain childhood cancers such as leukemia and brain cancer have increased by more than a third since the 1950s.

In Canada and in the U.S., hundreds of millions of dollars are raised and spent for cancer research and treatment. The elephant in the room, however, is the contribution of environmental toxins and whether many of the cancers striking North Americans can be avoided rather than simply managed.

The World Health Organization estimates that fully 25% of cancers worldwide are caused by occupational and environmental factors other than smoking. You don't have to look far for some potential chemical culprits.

The U.S. Centers For Disease Control recently turned their attention toward pollution detection - not in the environment, but within the human body. Their study in 2002 found the presence of 81 different toxic chemicals, including PCBs, benzene and other carcinogens in their sampling of 2,500 people tested.

It is somewhat of a no-brainer that reducing exposure to known carcinogens will reduce the risk of developing cancer. Surprisingly, this simple logic seems to have been lost on our federal governments. Many chemicals that are scientifically demonstrated carcinogens or otherwise toxic are freely used without any legal obligation to identify them on the label. Some of these same chemicals are entirely banned elsewhere.

A trip to your local supermarket reveals a small sample of these hidden poisons:
Mothballs contain either naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene, both of which are carcinogenic. A recent U.S. study linked mothball use to an increased incidence of non-Hodgkin's lymphoma.

Polycarbonate plastics used in food-grade plastic containers such as water bottles can leach Bisphenol A, an estrogen-mimicking chemical linked to a variety of disorders, including hormone-related birth defects, learning disabilities, prostate cancer and neuro-degenerative diseases such as Alzheimer's disease.

Several leading perfumes, nail polishes and other cosmetic products sold in Canada contain the endocrine-disrupting phthalates DBP and DEHP - both banned for use in cosmetic products in European Union countries.

Many leading brands of household laundry detergent contain trisodium nitrilotriacetate, another suspected carcinogen as well as an environmental pollutant.

Polybrominated diphenyl ethers or PBDEs are common chemical fire retardants found in everything from foam mattresses to computer parts. They have similar properties to the now outlawed PCBs and are known neurotoxins and hormone disrupters. The most dangerous forms are now banned in the EU, though they remain legal in North America .

Chemicals that endanger human life also go down the drain and impact the environment. A gruesome example involved a dead orca that washed up south of Vancouver in 2000 that was so contaminated with persistent chemicals that Ottawa considered shipping the carcass to the Swan Hills toxic waste facility for incineration.

Like orcas, we are perched at the top of the food chain and are becoming the unwitting receptacles of many of the chemicals designed to make our lives more convenient.

Ballooning cancer rates are simply not worth whiter clothes or fewer moths. (Besides, there are natural, effective and affordable *alternatives!)

Cancer must be fought on many fronts. Research and treatment are undeniably important but so is environmental cancer prevention. It is therefore shocking that our governments are not moving faster to ban known and suspected carcinogens, and requiring mandatory "right to know" labeling so that Canadians and Americans can better protect themselves and their families.

Anything less is quite simply putting the interests of the chemical industry ahead of human life.

SOURCE: TorontoStar June13th, 2005 / article by Mitchell Anderson
Mitchell Anderson is a board member of the Labour Environmental Alliance Society, a Vancouver-based charity that educates the public on cancer prevention.
Edited by Soutenus
Shared Post: BCN, Best Nest

Blueberry Cottage Recommendations for Good Resources

2010-01-24T12:02:00.000-08:00

From Blueberry Cottage:

I love Hobby Farm Homes, Carla Emery's book Country Living is like the Bible for all things farming/homesteading and Mary Jane Butters is an inspiration for her journey into organic farming and sharing that knowledge with community , which is so important.
I have enjoyed Tasha Tudor's books and the traditions she created with her children when they were young. As much as I like the 1800's I don't want to go back there as she did. God is still the smartest being around and if he thought any of us should be living in the 1800's instead of now He certainly would have put us there!

Must Know Info

2009-07-02T12:16:00.000-07:00

This is a serious, life threatening problem. Fortunately there is a simple solution to protect your family.

Could your home be healthier?
Learn how to get rid of toxins. . . it is worth it.

This video clip is from a news program (CBC) in Canada. The United States of America's Code of Federal Regulations is like Canada's in that; if a product is used for personal, family or household use.... the manufacturer does not have to tell us what is in it" (Section 1910.1200C, Title 29, Section 1500.82 2Q1A)

Link back to SOURCE:
http://video.aol.ca/video-detail/cbc-marketplace-report-toxic-brew/966454477/?icid=VIDLRVENT08
(you may need to scroll down)

Coffee Grounds and Egg Shells for Your Roses

2008-07-09T10:42:00.000-07:00

Coffee grounds are good for any plants in the garden as they contain a small amount of nitrogen. They also act like a mini compost for the soil.

You simply scatter a little amount around the base of the rose and then have to water it in or it won't work.

Eggshells are a good source of calcium - wash them out well. Let the egg shells dry, break up/crumble, then apply around the base of the roses, and dig into the soil a little bit (or put them under mulch - eggshells are not very attractive). Eggshells are safe to apply all year long and will not hurt the rose, but only help them (roses need calcium too!).

Visit Rocks in my Dryer for lots of different Works For Me Wednesday Tips. I am #256!

Snowflaking Basics

2008-06-13T21:19:00.000-07:00

1) Determine a set amount to pay toward debt, without fail, every month that is above your minimum payment due (even if it is just $10.00).

2) keep paying that amount, even as your debts shrink and your minimums get smaller. The extra become some of your snowflakes.

3) Collect all little bits of money wherever you can and apply those to your top priority debt as quickly and often as possible.

4) Keep a very strict accounting of

all the money that comes in every month
what is spent
everything left over at the end of the month not earmarked for future expenses
All leftover money = snowflakes.

Pay snowflakes immediately! The faster a balance is reduced, the less interest accrued.

Like this idea? Want to start off strong and organized? Want laser focus?

make a list of all your debts
order them from either smallest to largest or highest interest to lowest interest (that is a debate in itself),
focus all extra money above the minimum payments on a single debt (either the smallest total or the highest interest).

Snowflaking is a spinoff of the Snowball approach to debt reduction popularized by Dave Ramsey. I cannot take credit for this idea. Many personal finance gurus and bloggers have used this method. I first read about this at I Paid For This Twice Already.

Buy to Save the Environment

2008-06-08T20:05:00.001-07:00

Pruning Roses

2008-04-16T22:28:00.000-07:00

The following advice does not apply to climbing roses. They are a whole ‘nother ball game as far as pruning goes, and I don’t have a clue about them.

1. When the forsythia start blooming, it is time to prune and fertilize your roses. (Forsythia is that beautiful bush with bright yellow flowers growing all over each stem). Forsythia is one of the first flowers to bloom in the spring. If you live in the south or Southwest, you should probably do this about February. But for those in the north or cooler regions, April is about the right time.

2. When pruning your roses, don’t be afraid, you are helping them be their best. New growth produces more flowers. Use very sharp pruning shears, the kind you hold in your hand like scissors. You want to cut them down to 1/3 of their current height. Then take a good look at the bush and cut off any dead stems, stems that are thinner than a pencil, and stems that criss-cross each other. Imagine that you are trying to make a “vase” out of the stems that are left, leaving it open in the middle. This is to promote good air flow.

3. Now you are ready to fertilize. I prefer a granular systemic fertilizer that you only have to use about once a month. I use Bayer Advanced Care 2 in 1 Systemic. (Note from Soutenus - this is the original author's advice...anyone have and organic alternative?)

She says that the Bayer Advanced care 2 in 1 Systematic fertilizes and protects from insects that love to eat the rose buds and flowers and suck the life out of the stems.

Take a claw-type tool and loosen the dirt around the base of each rose bush. Follow the instructions on the bottle and apply the appropriate amount to the dirt at the base of the bush. Then take the claw-tool and mix it in the dirt. You don’t have to be too precise with this. Give your rose bushes a nice drink of water. Do this about once a month until the first hard frost.

4. Deadheading - The purpose for deadheading is to encourage the rose bush to produce more flowers. Once the rose starts to wilt, it’s time to remove it. You want to take take your pruners and look at the stem the fading rose is on. Cut it back just above the first group of leaves below the rose. If the stem where the rose was is thinner than a pencil, cut it farther down to a thicker area, but still above a group of leaves. The new growth will start at the group of leaves.

source: http://carolmehl.wordpress.com/2008/04/16/wfmw-caring-for-your-roses/

Path to Freedom

2008-04-01T09:15:00.001-07:00

Please stop in @ Path to Freedom.
This is the welcome message there:

"Let's face it. Our world is in deep, deep trouble and we are the "troublemakers." We have to make real, difficult changes yesterday.

Despite the obvious benefits, we are not going to recycle, compost, or talk our way out of this.

Our leaders, being politicians, are not leaders at all but are bound to be followers, who just won't be there for us in a crisis. So, it's up to me and you to make the choice of becoming responsible stewards of the earth.
Let's turn the world right side up as demonstrated through this website. Join us on our journey towards a sustainable present and future. Let's walk the path to freedom!"

Their older Path to Freedom site is wonderful, also. Here is the preface at that site:

"Here we present a self-sufficiency resource center and on-going report on our urban "homestead" which we have been recently developing. Since our aim is to break free from the system, we have taken some small steps in our yard and lifestyle to make it happen. Great goals, however, come at a great price. Thus, it has been a real, sweaty struggle to learn a new way of living. Things don't turn out the way we want them to. The pace is so painfully slow and, most of the time, after moving three steps forward, we end up going back two.

By showing what we are doing locally at our home in Pasadena, California we hope to prove that Living Free is possible one day. Until that time, we intend to offer encouragement with this website to all who desire to join us along the way, along the path to freedom."

Working Barefoot

2008-02-28T13:33:00.001-08:00

One of the many things Steve likes about where he's working is that he can work barefoot. I am ready to move there! Guess I will be saving up some major airfare --- he works in Thailand.

http://whatdoino-steve.blogspot.com/2008/02/working-barefoot.html

A Sunflower House

2008-02-21T10:56:00.000-08:00

New Life Journal, June-July, 2002 by Daron Joffe

 INGREDIENTS

1 seed packet 12-foot Russian Mammoth sunflowers
1 seed packet 6-8 foot Joker, Valentine, and/or Velvet Queen sunflowers
1 seed packet 1-to 3-foot Big Smile, Elf, and/or Teddy Bear sunflowers
1 seed packet Heavenly Blue morning glories
1 seed packet Suyo Long cucumbers (optional)
1 seed packet Purple Peacock or Rattlesnake pole bean (optional)

EQUIPMENT

2 40-pound bags of organic compost or aged manure
1 roll of twine
One bale of straw or 3 bags of bark mulch (optional)

BREAKING GROUND

Select a nice flat area in full sun. Outline the area to be planted, which should be a square or rectangle bed any size from as small as 5x5 to as big as 14x14.

Following the outline, loosen the soil with a digging fork leaving a 2-foot entrance at the south end. Add compost generously and fork compost into top 10" of the outlined bed.

Smooth bed to an even surface and plant seeds. The sunflowers need about one foot between plantings, while the climbing vines and small sunflowers can be sown in between the sunflower seeds. Plant all seeds twice the depth of the seed in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Water gently but generously and keep moist until the plants are well established.

One can pre-soak the seeds the night before in water to aid germination. For optimal growth, feed your plants every few weeks with a half-strength blend of liquid kelp and fish emulsion. Once the plants are about a foot tall, feed every four weeks with a full-strength organic fertilizer.

Mulching the inside area with shredded bark or straw can create a nice safe play surface. The children can turn the area into a kitchen by making dishes and utensils from acorns, walnut shells, milkweed pods, and bamboo. Use large tree stumps for tables and smaller ones for sitting stools.

If the sunflowers need extra support, drive a few bamboo stakes in the ground and tie the plants to them. Once the morning glories reach the top of the sunflower stalks, loosely tie a length of twine just below the head of the tallest sunflowers. Carry the lengths of twine across the house and tie them under the heads of the sunflowers on the opposite side. The morning glories will climb across the twine making a roof to close in this sacred space for children to observe and discover. Cut tots of bouquets, as cutting stimulates more growth and more flowers. Enjoy the wonder and beauty!

Growing Food

2008-02-19T06:21:00.000-08:00

Growing food is fundamental to sustainable living and good health. Fresh food is simply better; flavors, vitamins and enzymes decrease rapidly as food ages.

The majority of people who live to a ripe old age, and who seem to enjoy good health right up to the end, seem spend a disproportionately large amount of time puttering around in their gardens, and comparatively little time out driving around in traffic or managing the hostile takeover of corporations.

There is a lot to know about growing food, and information varies depending on geography, climate, etc. It takes years to become an accomplished farmer. This site will simply guide you to the resources that you need in order to do it. But first, a few basic principles:

* Pick a sunny location. Most food does not grow well in the shade. You need at least six hours of direct sun a day to be very successful.

* Establish buffer zones. Your garden may need protection against wind, automobile traffic, deer and other pests. Hedgerows, fences and perimeter beds can help. Surrounding a garden with perennial herbs confuses pests with its strong scents. Fencing a garden with pollen-bearing perennials provides critical habitat for for the predatory insects which keep pests in check. Establishing the perimeter first can help ensure success when actual crops are planted.

* Establish permanent pathways and garden beds. Arrange beds running north - south. A good-sized bed is 3-4 feet wide and as long as you want it. (If it is much wider than four feet, you will not be able to reach the center without stepping or kneeling in the bed.) Cultivate your beds year after year, adding compost and organic fertilizers as needed, and rotating crops. Do not walk on your garden beds; it compacts the soil.

* Build your soil: This is the cornerstone of organic farming and gardening. Healthy soil supports good plants. The best way to build healthy soil is to add lots and lots of compost. You cannot add too much compost to your soil, but if you add too little, it will get hard and your plants will be puny and weak, and thus susceptible to disease. If you cannot make enough compost (most homeowners fall into this category), then buy it from your city, a local farmer, or your neighborhood landscape supply house. A few sustainable businesses have developed products out of recycled plastic which help urban and suburban residents compost.

* Buy a good spading fork: The digging fork is by far the most useful cultivation tool. You will use it every day for digging new beds, re-digging old ones, cultivating around crops and trees, even weeding and pulling out nasty unwanted trees and cactus. The best forks have big, fat forged steel heads; short, stout, unbreakable handles and a D-grip.

* Cultivate diversity: Monoculture attracts pests; so grow a little of everything. Learn which plants grow together, and which do not (the science of companion planting). Harvest your own seeds and purchase heirloom variety plants. Keep a steady stream of flowers available to feed predatory insects (which need to eat even when there are no pests in your yard); multitudes of small flowers feed more predators than big, showy flowers.

* Water carefully: Plants show many of the same signs when over-watered as when under-watered. Established plants typically prefer deep, infrequent watering; that is, soak, let the soil dry out completely, then soak again. Check the soil to be sure. Dig down six inches. If the soil will hold in a ball, then it does not need to be watered. Daily, shallow watering causes or exacerbates many plant diseases, including blossom-end rot.

* Learn about Integrated Pest Management. Avoid using chemical pesticides and fertilizers, which already plague the commercial food supply. Most homeowners wind up misusing chemicals far more egregiously than farmers.

* Learn how to tell when fruits and vegetables are perfectly ripe.

source: http://www.sustainableenterprises.com/Body/garden.htm
picture sources: http://archive.rhizomecollective.org/Images2/Photos/Tour/polyPond.jpg

Coffee Grounds and Egg Shells for Roses

2008-02-19T06:18:00.000-08:00

Coffee grounds are good for any plants in the garden as they contain a small amount of nitrogen. They also act like a mini compost for the soil. That is all it will do for the roses. They will not help in any way to make the rose bush bloom better. You simply scatter a little amount around the base of the rose and then have to water it in or it won't work.

Eggshells are a good source of calcium - wash them out well. Let the egg shells dry, break up/crumble, then apply around the base of the roses, and dig into the soil a little bit (or put them under mulch - eggshells are not very attractive). Eggshells are safe to apply all year long and will not hurt the rose, but only help them (roses need calcium too!).